Luang Prabang, Laos

Every now and then on your travels, you come across a place that you could lose yourself in and never leave. For me, Luang Prabang is one of those places.

Nestled in northern Laos, tucked among green mountains and majestic rivers, it’s no wonder Luang Prabang is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The small city is a combination of impressive natural surroundings, historic architecture, and friendly inhabitants. All that makes it such a lovely and inviting place, I didn’t want to leave.

Mandy and I booked last minute so ended up staying in budget accommodation close to the centre of town. This meant that hiring bicycles from our hotel was our main way of getting around. Cycling was a great way to see all the city has to offer and also escape the heat on the downhill stretches.

It is a beautiful city, with its French architecture accented with palm trees and tuk-tuks. Most signs are written in Laotian and French, although we saw a fair amount of English as well.

Here are some highlights of this visit to Luang Prabang – a place I hope to see again.

Things to do

Night market: The Luang Prabang Night Market takes place every night from 5pm, right in the centre of town. We arrived on a late afternoon flight from Siem Reap so our first stop after checking in was to the night market. The amazing Luang Prabang Night Markets is a place where locals and tourists come together to converse, shop and eat all in one location. A difference I felt at these markets was there was a complete lack of pressure or push-selling from the locals. The market’s Hmong and Lao vendors sit on mats with their wares spread around them, allowing you to browse in relative peace.

Just off the Night Market entrance, delicious smells waft from a narrow alley. This is ‘food street’ and you will want to spend some time here. Along with a range of bbq’d meats and salted fish, I found my beloved noodle soup here. After you have filled on savoury delights, don’t forget to check out the local cakes on display or, my favourite, tiny coconut pancakes. The batter is made with coconut milk, sugar and rice flour and cooked over hot coals in a round cupcake-esque baking sheet. The two halves are cooked separately then sandwiched together to make bite-sized sweets.

Delicious tiny coconut pancakes

Mount Phousi: We walked to the top of this baby for sunset and were not prepared at all for how many people had the same idea! There are 360-degree views at the top, so the effort and the crowds are worth it! My first tip is to take some water. 328 steps may not sound like much but in the humid afternoon air, it definitely saps it out of you.

You will need to pay an entrance fee of about 20,000 kips (roughly $4) and you can pay this about halfway to the top – the perfect excuse for a water break. From the top of the mountain, you can see a fabulous view of Luang Prabang and the Mekong Delta. If you are hoping to see sunset, I recommend you go early to get a good vantage point.

Garden of Eden: This local shop is a gem – pun fully intended! We discovered on the recommendation of one of Mandy’s friends who had been before. Garden of Eden is a teeny tiny wonder on the other side of a bamboo bridge. We had to get there the long way around on our bikes as the bamboo bridge is built every dry season and washes away in the wet season and only reached halfway across the river when we were there.

Garden of Eden

Here, not only can you purchase one-of-a-kind hand-made local jewellery, but even create necklaces, bracelets, and earrings of your own by following instructions from local artisans. We weren’t there at the right time for any lessons but spent quite a bit of time shopping and I came home with presents for the ladies in my family.

Visit the temples: There are some 36 temples are scattered around town. Given we only had a couple of days to explore, we limited our choices to a select few but you could lose days visiting them.

Sunset river cruise: There are several options for a sunset river cruise but we were lucky enough to tag along with the cruise run by The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel – a stunning place I desperately wanted to stay at but with only 13 rooms available, we didn’t book in time.

Mandy enjoying a cruise before sunset

The cruise departs across from the hotel in a lovely wooden boat. We were offered a drink to sip as we watched the world go by. A river cruise allows you to see Luang Prabang from a different angle and usually offers up a cracking sunset, viewed from all angles.

Sunset on the Mekong

What to eat

Aside from noodle soup, one of my favourite meals in Laos was Lao fondue. We had this delicious meal at one of the most picturesque spots I have ever been – Dyen Sabai. Located across the river - accessed ideally via that temporary bamboo bridge - this restaurant is a perfect spot for those wishing to escape the busy atmosphere of the main streets. The view from the river front of the restaurant is breathtaking.

Vegetarian Laos Fondue

For the fondue – which is more like a hotpot - a wrought iron bowl is placed in the hole in the middle of your table with coals burning. On it a spherical dome is placed with a ‘moat’ surrounding it. From there it is very much cook our own approach. You’re given a plate of raw meats, a selection of glass noodles and vegetables and huge kettle full of stock. You place the meat in the middle to cook whilst filling the ‘moat’ with stock and your selection of veg – and voila, the never-ending hotpot meal results. We washed it all down with a couple of Beer Laos before cycling back to the other side of town.

The unfinished bamboo bridge

Laos coffee is something you should definitely try on your Luang Prabang visit. Be warned though, this strong brew isn’t for the faint of heart. For those who like their coffee rich and strong, you’ve come to the right place.

Laos Coffee brewing

The Lao mostly don’t drink their coffee black, and instead diffuse it with a cocktail of powdered milk, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk. They brew it with a massive cloth filter, slightly resembling a large sock, and ensure the brew is extra strong. The result is a thick, sweet, earthly, delicious concoction of rocket fuel to refresh and revive.

We always sought out the places in the mornings where the locals were having their coffees and joined in. You can have it served hot or cold depending on your mood, but I like it both ways and missed this pick-me-up when I returned home.

Where to stay

Luang Prabang isn’t huge and the old town area is very compact so getting around is pretty easy. No matter where you stay you will be able to see everything easily enough.

The old town can be defined as the area within the the Luang Prabang peninsula, which is bounded by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. This is where you will find the stunning The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel which overlooks the Mekong. You might also want to check out Villa Santi Hotel - a boutique hotel in a renovated royal mansion. It’s set in a lush tropical garden in the back streets of the old town.

If you are looking for luxury AVANI+ Luang Prabang is a 5-star resort hotel on the main road but most of the luxury resorts are a bit further out of town. Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao is a tranquil hillside resort overlooking the ancient capital, about a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from the centre of old town.

Book a Luang Prabang stay of your own here.

Nearby

Just a short trip out of town is the picturesque Kuang Si Falls. These famous falls are a must-see and you can read all about it on my dedicated blog here.