A solo summit of Ben Nevis, Scotland
Hiking to the top of the highest mountain in Britain in one day? Sure, why not! Do it alone, even more of a challenge!
Spending a week solo in Scotland, I wanted to get some hiking of that epic scenery under my belt. As I travelled around and mentioned to locals that I was planning on heading up Ben Nevis – alone – they seemed determined to persuade me it was a bad idea. Nevertheless, I was determined.
The main concern is that for most of the year, the peak isn’t even visible from the ground and the people have literally just walked off the edge because the visibility was so bad.
I lucked out though. For my entire week in Scotland, the sun was shining, and skies were clear – perfect September conditions.
By world standards, Ben Nevis isn’t that imposing. Standing at just 1,345 metres (4,409 ft), the mountain would be dwarfed by many but that doesn’t make it any less work.
One of those reasons is that you start the hike pretty much at sea level and you have to go up and down in one day. Even with perfect conditions, the blustery wind at the top means you don’t want to stick around too long.
Guides estimate that it takes between 7 and 9 hours to complete the 18km round trip. My advice, hit somewhere in the middle, the down portion at the top is nowhere as easy as I imagined it would be.
I was staying nearby in Ballachulish but still got up before brekkie was served and headed for the starting off point near Fort William.
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There were a few people around the start of the hike which was great so I didn’t feel all alone. The walk itself start off relatively easily along a pony trail among lush green farmland. The air was misty but as the path ascended, the mist cleared and there were plenty of reasons to stop, take in the views and take photos.
About 90 minutes into the hike, the trail passed Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe (also known as the ‘Halfway Lochan’). The water here is so pure that a one of the oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland – Ben Nevis - source water for their Scotch from two lochans situated 3,000 feet up the north face of the mountain.
Several hours into the hike, the path becomes increasingly stony and you definitely have to watch your footing. Near here you also cross a small waterfall which I imagine after snow or melting snow is not so small at all!
As I climbed it became ever colder, luckily I was well prepared with several layers. The path for the last hour isn't really a path… it's more like a convenient rockslide!
The last stretch to the summit really is the hardest and I can see why in bad weather this is not a great hike. I had perfect conditions and could only just see the trail as a slightly different colour of the rock.
The views during the trek were sensational and between these and the walking you couldn't help but be left breathless.
When you do reach the top. it seems as if half of Scotland is spread before on a clear day – from the mountains of Skye in the northwest to the Cairngorms in the east.
The top of the mountain is relatively flat with cairns (piles of rocks) marking the way across and away from the very steep cliffs below. Peering over some of the edges, there were even remnants of snowbanks at the end of September! You really would need to be mindful of weather changes up here.
I stopped at the top for about 20 minutes for a snack and some photos. It was way too cold to sit still for too long.
The first part of the descent was actually harder than going up in my opinion. The rocky scree and decline meant that I felt like I was squatting for about an hour!
The change from rock to path was a welcome one and I think I trotted the last hour back to my car.
I highly recommend a good pair of hiking boots for this day hike and the right layers for the conditions as it can quickly change. I am so glad I managed this hike, even if I couldn’t walk properly for a day afterwards!
Before heading back to my hotel for a hot bath I stopped in for a beer in Fort William and something warm to eat. It is a small but very welcoming Scottish town and I wish I could have stayed a bit longer.